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The city is once again offering free trees to residents who would like to plant in their yards. Applications will be accepted until October 24. Here is all the program information:

The Trees for Neighborhoods program helps Seattle residents plant trees in their yards and along their streets. Participants in the program receive:

* Free trees
* Watering bags
* Training on proper planting and care
* Coupon for free Groco compost
* Ongoing care reminders and workshop opportunities

Find Available Species online.

Program Rules:

* Trees can be planted anywhere in residential yards, but must be planted at the address on the application.
* Permits are required if planting street trees – reLeaf staff will coordinate acquiring permits. Receiving a permit is not guaranteed. No permit is required for yard trees.
* You must be present at the planting training to pick up your tree(s). All trees should be planted shortly after receiving them.
* The number of trees approved for your yard may be fewer than the number requested. Please note that tree availability is not guaranteed.
* If you do not own your home, you must obtain the permission of the homeowner.

Tree supply is limited and applications will be accepted on a first come first served basis, so apply early!

Things to Consider When Selecting Your Tree(s):

* To avoid future problems, trees must be planted at least 5 ft. from underground utility lines, 10 ft. from power poles, 20 ft. from street lights or other trees, and 30 ft. from a corner curb. To make sure your site meets minimum distance requirements, identify any underground utilities that may impact the location of your trees BEFORE you submit this application.
* To identify where your sewer lines are, click here.
* To identify where your other underground utilities are, call the utility locator service at 800-424-5555. This service does not mark sewer lines. Indicate that you have a “pre-planning locate request,” and that you will not be digging right away, but need the sites marked BEFORE you submit your application. A representative from each utility will come out to mark the locations of their buried lines near your site. For more information, including color codes, visit the Utility Notification Center.
* Do not plant a tall tree under power lines. Trees planted under power lines should reach a maximum of 20’ at maturity or the safety of the power lines will be compromised.
* Take time to evaluate sites on your property where trees can fit. The survival and health of the tree depends on how well it is suited to the spot that you plant it. Consider: placement (is there enough space for this tree when it grows up?), light, moisture, and type of soil.
* Many of these trees will get big! Read descriptions carefully and envision what the tree will look like in 30+ years. Larger trees provide greater benefits to your neighborhood and our environment than smaller trees. They control more water, provide more shade in the summer, breathe in more carbon dioxide and breathe out more oxygen than smaller trees. For these reasons, the City of Seattle recommends planting larger trees whenever appropriate.
* All trees are 5 gallon sized container trees, with the exception of the Asian pear, which is a 10 gallon container tree.
* Your young trees will not survive the dry summer without you giving them water and care! Water bags will be provided to help you water the trees in the summer.

Consider Planting a Large Tree!

Large trees provide greater benefits to the community than do small trees, reducing stormwater runoff, filtering air pollution and providing shade to cool summer temperatures. The National Tree Benefits Calculator estimates that the value of the annual benefits provided by a 30-inch magnolia is $99 versus $262 for a Douglas fir.

Because of the greater benefits large trees provides, we encourage you to plant the largest tree suitable for the site you have chosen. Only small trees should be planted under power lines.

Ready to Apply?

Download Mail-in Application (pdf)

Apply Online

Make sure you review the program rules, things to consider, and available species before applying.

We are currently sold out of Asian pear, paperbark maple, Japanese snowbell, and Eastern redbud. You may still apply for these trees, but will be placed on a waitlist.

If you have questions about the program after reading the information on this page, please contact TreesforNeighborhoods AT seattle.gov or call 206-615-1668.

continue

Now thru 5/31/11, all in-stock ornamental cherry trees are 20% off.

Big Trees, Inc. is excited to announce a “tree care” partnership with Bartlett Tree Experts!

As Bartlett says “Exceptional Trees Deserve Exceptional Care” and we couldn’t agree more, especially when it comes to providing the best care available to newly installed or transplanted trees by Big Trees, Inc. crews. Integrating professional tree care services into our residential and commercial projects provides a level of investment protection that assures newly installed trees will thrive.

The local Bartlett office is an accredited member of The Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA) and has Arborist Representatives with membership in the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), including some who are ISA Board-Certified Master Arborists. This all means our clients and their trees have access to the best tree care professionals available.

With the backing of a national laboratory and research staff, Big Trees’ customers have access to fast and accurate fertilization and soil management analysis, two of the biggest variables when determining the correct aftercare treatments for trees. Testing and adjusting for the proper soil pH and organic matter are key to long-term tree health. Bartlett also provides the following important services to Puget Sound customers:

~Cabling and Bracing
~Drought Services
~Emergency Tree Service
~Fertilization and Soil Management
~Insect and Disease Management
~Lighting Protection
~Plant Analysis and Diagnostics
~Pruning
~Storm Damage
~Tree Inspections
~Tree Inventory
~Tree Removal
~Tree Structure Evaluation

With the help of the professionals at Bartlett Tree Experts, Big Trees can now quickly refer customers to services that maintain beautiful, healthy trees and shrubs. Their local arborists can diagnose and treat problems to protect your plants and help ensure safety on your property.

To find out more about the Bartlett Tree Experts, their services and program details go to http://www.Bartlett.com/locations/Kenmore-WA.cfm?a. Alternatively, call their local office at 425-481-6529 or in Seattle 206-522-5056 or call Big Trees directly to find out how these programs can help you and your landscape.

Hello Everybody!

The new website is up and running, with lots of new images and information. We will be adding more inventory and interesting content as the next couple of weeks go by, and we hope you all get a chance to check it out!

Thanks for being out there, and we hope to see you here at the nursery this Spring as the flowers bloom…

Todd

Hello Everybody,

Thanks to all who put together and attended the North West Flower and Garden Show this year! We had our enormous Japanese Maple on display in the main floor area, and have enjoyed all the comments and feedback from the event.

We wanted to let everyone know that our fantastic new website is about to launch any day now, please check in to see it on your monitor in all its glory!

On another note, we are having all of our flowering trees on sale through the end of this week, 15% off retail pricing. Come on in and say hi!

Thanks again, and see you soon!
Todd

This time of year feels like Spring is just around the corner. The weather is still undecided, but many of the signs of Winter seem to stabilize, and the thoughts of Spring and the not so distant Summer start to creep in the side gates of our thoughts and gardens.
Many people’s Spring planting enthusiasms seem to gain momentum with the timing of the Northwest Flower and Garden Show. The show has been a major fixture of the local landscaping industry and all those who look to be inspired in their own outdoor spaces. With all the amazing display gardens and vendors present, it’s nearly impossible to leave without having learned something new or having gained some inspiration. Many of the shows participants are doing their best in the hopes you will leave the show with some of their products and services. Any way you chose to participate, their tends to be surprises and excitement to take in.
Big Trees will be adding trees to a number of display gardens, with our largest Japanese Maple tree being featured in Karen Stefonick’s garden design. Last year, Karen’s ensemble of plants and hardscapes captured the best overall display in the show, and we are wishing her and all the designers the best as they weave their landscape webs for our entertainment.
Please come see the Northwest Flower and Garden Show this February 23rd through the 27th at The Washington State Convention Center. Say hello to our enormous Acer Palmatum that will be keeping a lofty eye on all the action, and enjoy the afternoon taking in the best the Northwest gardening community has to offer.

Hello everybody! My name is Todd Holmes, and I have been digging, moving and handling large trees in the Puget Sound area since the late 80’s, with it always having been a part of my professional lifestyle. My favorite days consist of exceptionally challenging logistics conquered, and a beautiful, specimen tree living in a new location that seemed unreachable. I am going to do my best to get some fun and interesting posts occurring regularly here, as well as answering as many questions as I can about the nursery tree moving and sales business I love being a part of. Big Trees has been a really great fit for me, and I am loving the atmosphere and day in/day out operations of our company. I hope everyone is having a great day, and I’ll be in touch.

Getting the most from mulching, Do you mulch too much?

By Cindy Ratcliff

As published in Total Landscape Care, September 2009

Compared with the rest of the landscape, trees are about as low-maintenance as you can get, which makes them easy to overlook. Sure, you remember to water and fertilize them with the rest of the lawn, but they really need more than that to thrive. A regular maintenance program will add vigor and help prevent future problems.

Done properly, applying mulch around landscape ornamentals can be one of the best things you do for them. Mulching mistakes, by contrast, can stress and even kill plants. So it’s critical to familiarize yourself with mulching basics, as well as what kind of soil you’re working with.

The cover up
Overmulching is the most common mulching mistake perpetuated by a “monkey-see, monkey-do” mentality. In short, we’ve seen so many examples of mulch piled up high on tree trunks that we associate it with the correct way to mulch. This could not be further from the truth.

In fact, this is such a common problem that the International Society of Arboriculture has come up with a term to describe this improper method of mulching: mulch volcanoes. Its campaign against this technique implores landscapers to “mulch wide - not deep.” This epidemic of incorrect mulching has elevated to code-red status, becoming one of the leading causes of death of trees and shrubs.
Mulching too deep or too close to trees and plants can lead to plant injury and death in a number of ways:

Root suffocation. Roots need to breathe. Without acceptable levels of oxygen, roots begin to decline and will eventually die.

Dehydration. If you pile on the mulch too thick, you prohibit the penetration of water and dehydrate roots. In the case where water actually does make it through the mulch and to the soil, you then risk preventing natural evaporation, which will result in perpetually soggy soil and will eventually lead to root rot.

Fungus. Piling mulch against a tree trunk is an open invitation for fungi. The moist conditions provide the perfect environment for their growth and reproduction. Once the tree bark begins to decay, the fungi can easily enter the tree.

Insects. Research suggests some insects can instinctively detect a stressed tree or plant and will attack it preferentially. So not only will your ornamentals decline from the mulch, they will be less able to fend off insect pests.

Vertebrate pests. Thick mulch volcanoes provide a nice habitat for rodents who will feast on the inner bark of trees and cause girdling. The more extensive the chewing, the less likely you’ll be able to save the tree.

Excessive heat. You know that heat associated with composting? If your mulch is thick enough, that same process will occur. In fact, temperatures can reach 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit as decay occurs in the thick piles.

Unfortunately, you often won’t know if mulch is killing plants until it’s too late - sometimes the symptoms don’t show up for three to five years. You’ll probably first notice an overall decline of plant vigor and rate of growth, according to the Virginia Nursery & Landscaping Association. Symptoms can include:

• Off-color leaves (pale or marbled)
• Abnormally small leaves
• Poor twig growth
• Die-back of older branches
• Rotting, peeling trunk bark under the mulch

Mulching done right
To get the proper mix of mulch around trees and in landscape bedding, it’s imperative you consider the moisture needs of the plants, the type of soil you’re working with and the drainage characteristics. You’ll need to know these things before you select a mulch and determine the appropriate depth of the mulch.

For well-drained sites, you will typically apply a layer of mulch 2 to 4 inches deep. For soils that don’t drain well, you’ll want to keep mulch to no more than 2 inches deep. And for soils that perpetually retain water, you may have to forego mulch altogether, despite its benefits.

As you apply the mulch, remember to keep it away from tree trunks and other plants. For younger trees, your guideline should be no closer than 3 inches. For more mature trees, you’ll want to keep mulch even farther away, at a minimum distance of 8 inches. In ideal situations, you should extend the mulched area all the way to the tree’s dripline. This isn’t always possible as aesthetics often dictate a smaller mulched area, but it’s best for the health of the tree.

When selecting a type of mulch, you’ll choose from mulches in two categories. Inorganic mulches include stone, lava rock, pulverized rubber, geotextile fabrics and other materials that don’t easily decompose. Organic mulches, on the other hand, will decompose more readily and include wood chips, pine needles, leaves, cocoa hulls, softwood and hardwood bark, etc.

The benefit of inorganic mulches is that they don’t often need to be replaced; however, they do nothing to improve the soil structure, either. Organic mulches provide nutrients and improve soil quality and fertility.

The merits of mulching
In addition to making a landscape look more manicured, mulch applied correctly offers many benefits to plants. It works to improve soil conditions and helps soil maintain moisture by decreasing water loss. It also keeps weeds at bay and minimizes their competition for water and nutrients. It provides insulation for soil, keeping it warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. It protects tree trunks and plants from string trimmer and mower damage, and it reduces soil compaction by diverting foot and vehicle traffic.

Big Trees understands that construction schedules and moving times do not always coincide with the best time to transplant trees.  Ideally trees are transplanted when they are dormant.  This is the period after the leaves drop in fall and before the spring growth begins.  However, not to worry if you missed the ideal transplant time because with 25 years of transplanting experience we have developed a method that allows for successful summer transplants. 

We are able to transplant trees in the summer with additional steps and treatments.   The aim of antitranspirant and antidesiccant treatment applications are to reduce the water loss, and stress associated with water loss, of trees during the transplant process. 

Just what are antidesiccants and antitranspirants?  The dictionary gives two different meanings for ‘desiccant’ and ‘transpire’.  Desiccation means to ‘dry or dehydrate’, where transpiration means to ‘pass through pores or membranes.’  In the horticultural world an antidesiccant would be a substance used to stop dehydration in plants and an antitranspirant would be a substance that stops the loss of water from leaves.  In the horticultural world both terms can be interchanged.  For simplicity let’s just use antitranspirant from here on out.

Here is a brief introduction on tree biology which may help you understand how antitranspirants work.  The evaporation of water from plants is called transpiration, and almost all transpiration occurs through leaf openings called stomata.  Water is literally pulled to the tops of the trees by transpiration. Transpiration aids plants in mineral and water absorption, and it is necessary for the plant process of photosynthesis, which is critical for tree growth and ultimately the well being of the plant.

Plants control the size of the leaf openings (stomata) based on external environmental conditions and internal chemical triggers.  Transpiration is at its highest when light is available, the temperature is high, the humidity is low, there is a slight breeze and adequate water is available.  If water is unavailable during high periods of transpiration the leaves of the tree wilt because water is lost through leaf openings faster than it is being absorbed. 

Big Trees applies antitranspirants as a root soak and as a foliar spray.  The foliar spray is a clear liquid coating that forms a shield over the leaf surface.  This shield works as a physical barrier that aids in the prevention of water loss from the stomata.    The foliar spray can significantly reduce plant stress associated with water loss during the transplant period. The foliar spray also provides protection against insect damage, UV degradation and windburn.

The root soak is applied as a soil drench which can then be absorbed into the tree’s root system.  It is best absorbed into the root system when the soil is already partially moist.  Through transpiration the root soak is moved from the roots through the canopy of the tree.  The root soak contains Abscisic acid (know as ABA).  ABA works as a natural chemical trigger. As ABA is moved through the tissue of the tree it deactivates transpiration by triggering the leaf stomata to close.  The plant reduces its transpiration naturally. 

Both the root soak and the foliar spray work together to make summer transplant possible.  They should be applied at least 24 hours prior to the dig.  The effects of both applications can last up to three weeks.  The root soak and the foliar spray come as concentrates which are diluted with water before they are used.  They are easy to apply, they are environmentally friendly and completely safe, and best yet they produce excellent results.