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Big Trees understands that construction schedules and moving times do not always coincide with the best time to transplant trees. Ideally trees are transplanted when they are dormant. This is the period after the leaves drop in fall and before the spring growth begins. However, not to worry if you missed the ideal transplant time because with 25 years of transplanting experience we have developed a method that allows for successful summer transplants.
We are able to transplant trees in the summer with additional steps and treatments. The aim of antitranspirant and antidesiccant treatment applications are to reduce the water loss, and stress associated with water loss, of trees during the transplant process.
Just what are antidesiccants and antitranspirants? The dictionary gives two different meanings for ‘desiccant’ and ‘transpire’. Desiccation means to ‘dry or dehydrate’, where transpiration means to ‘pass through pores or membranes.’ In the horticultural world an antidesiccant would be a substance used to stop dehydration in plants and an antitranspirant would be a substance that stops the loss of water from leaves. In the horticultural world both terms can be interchanged. For simplicity let’s just use antitranspirant from here on out.
Here is a brief introduction on tree biology which may help you understand how antitranspirants work. The evaporation of water from plants is called transpiration, and almost all transpiration occurs through leaf openings called stomata. Water is literally pulled to the tops of the trees by transpiration. Transpiration aids plants in mineral and water absorption, and it is necessary for the plant process of photosynthesis, which is critical for tree growth and ultimately the well being of the plant.
Plants control the size of the leaf openings (stomata) based on external environmental conditions and internal chemical triggers. Transpiration is at its highest when light is available, the temperature is high, the humidity is low, there is a slight breeze and adequate water is available. If water is unavailable during high periods of transpiration the leaves of the tree wilt because water is lost through leaf openings faster than it is being absorbed.
Big Trees applies antitranspirants as a root soak and as a foliar spray. The foliar spray is a clear liquid coating that forms a shield over the leaf surface. This shield works as a physical barrier that aids in the prevention of water loss from the stomata. The foliar spray can significantly reduce plant stress associated with water loss during the transplant period. The foliar spray also provides protection against insect damage, UV degradation and windburn.
The root soak is applied as a soil drench which can then be absorbed into the tree’s root system. It is best absorbed into the root system when the soil is already partially moist. Through transpiration the root soak is moved from the roots through the canopy of the tree. The root soak contains Abscisic acid (know as ABA). ABA works as a natural chemical trigger. As ABA is moved through the tissue of the tree it deactivates transpiration by triggering the leaf stomata to close. The plant reduces its transpiration naturally.
Both the root soak and the foliar spray work together to make summer transplant possible. They should be applied at least 24 hours prior to the dig. The effects of both applications can last up to three weeks. The root soak and the foliar spray come as concentrates which are diluted with water before they are used. They are easy to apply, they are environmentally friendly and completely safe, and best yet they produce excellent results.
Really good article about Tree Moving. I have a tree in my yard that I really really want to move. Thanks
I moved a tree in my yard about 1-1/2 months ago. The tree is about 2″ dia. and about 12-15ft high. I believe it is a Red OaK. The tree was in my woods section of my yard surrounded by many other trees which is why I beleive it is so high. You can tell that the tree was reaching for the sun. Anyway, I think the transplant was successful because I haven;t lost any leaves but I do not see any new growth. I have not pruned the tree yet. Can you tell me when I should prune the tree and would you know since the tree hasn’t lost leaves do you think the transplant was successful?
I live in south Ohio very close to Ky border.
It sounds to me like all you have done so far is working out well, and that the Red Oak needed a little breathing room.
If you haven’t seen any leaf drop after a mid June transplant then things must be going well. As for the lack of new growth in the branching, it may be the only real sign of stress the tree has to show for the move. You can always scratch the skin, or cambium, on any branch, and if the color underneath is green, then you have a live branch.
As for your interests in pruning the tree, I hope that is a measured and subtle pruning. I can’t help but think that leaving the tree in its current state and letting it fill out the shape it is in would be the best thing for it. If you choose to prune it, remember that pruning any tree back more than 15-20% of its size can cause some serious impacts to its long term health. Pruning in the Fall is best in my understanding of most central leader, deciduous trees.